It is 6:30 in the morning. My mind is hazy from jet lag and the wedding party last night. I somehow make it out of bed and find my way into a damp wetsuit. Taking three deep and relaxing breaths I pull the cold neoprene on. Three more breaths and I am wildly awake. I grab the long foam top board I rented and head for the beach. The sand is cold on my feet and wiggles between my toes. Without hesitating I splash into the Pacific. It feels good to be back in California, and for the first time ever I am (trying to) surfing in my home state. This is of course a point of constant clarification for Californians: “ahh cool man, you must be a surfer, right?” Obligatory response: “Yeah, everyday before and after school… ehhh.” So, what the heck, maybe I’ll become ‘Californian.’
The waves are tame, and I am having a great time bobbing in the gentle surf. I am able to catch some small waves and for the first time (I have been pounded by heavy beach breaks in Mexico and France before) have the feeling that must draw all surfers back to the water time and time again.
In floating out there on the water I suddenly feel remote from civilization even though I can see it all around me. Gulls chirp over head, the waves crash gently, the sun begins to rise, causing wave crests to glimmer golden against the rose colored sky… I think about a lot of things, and about nothing at all… Like the dolphin rising up 15 meters out from me; thoughts rising and then sinking peacefully.
When my brother first told me of his vision to create a project called The Extra Mile Adventure, my first reaction was of enthusiasm, joy and pride… slowly this gave way to my older brother tendency of skepticism, doubt and protection. However, I jumped right in; trying to help him gain some grounding and direction. My first two pieces of advice were: get a website and talk to Ingrid. Ingrid is one of our oldest friends, practically a sister and now a super non-profit manager and Obama campaigner. But of course, a week passed and my brother called me again and I was surprised and amazed how much he had accomplished and how many people were stoked on the idea and contributing towards its realization. The momentum has only continued to swell and the enthusiasm builds measurably as concrete progress is made in ‘pulling it all together.’
In the water this morning I feel so damned alive. I had only gotten a few blinks of sleep the night before, but somehow I was soaking up the ocean’s energy, rejoicing in the birds’ calls - all at once I knew everything and nothing. I pondered what it meant to be part of this earth, this life… I definitely understood why surfing is a central piece of The Extra Mile Adventure. TEMA is about unlocking the inspiration in us to be great. Surfing this morning has filled my heart and head with tranquility, inspiration and trust in the world. Far from being trivial, it gives us the courage we need to go the extra mile – today, tomorrow, right now!
Started in San Diego, finished in Madrid.
Scott Mueller
